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Gladys Yang

I never knew Gladys Yang and Yang Xianyi. I had their old sofa but that doesn’t really count, does it? They died ten years apart, almost to the day: November 18, 1999 and November 23, 2009.

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Yang Xianyi died a month after I left China. Gladys died the year I arrived. Back then I was working for the Foreign Languages Press where, years earlier, they had translated so many of the books and stories from China that I had read as a student. When Gladys died, a colleague gave me an article about her clipped from the Beijing Evening News. I found it again in a dusty folder the night before I left Beijing. You find a lot of things you’d forgotten you had when you’re throwing out a decade of accumulated junk before you move.

“Keep it,” I thought. “You might want to translate it one day.” A month later, with the passing of her husband, now seemed a good enough time for that. But, as is often the case, other things got in the way so it’s been a bit delayed.

There have been a number of obituaries of Yang Xianyi (John Gittings’ one in the Guardian seems as good as any) and there were a number of obituaries of Gladys Yang when she died ten years ago. In the Chinese press, there are some things which cannot be printed, no matter how strongly they are felt. The most obvious is the Yangs’ angry and outspoken opposition to the coup d’etat and massacre of 1989. As a new, younger generation grows up in China with little knowledge of those events, it’s worth remembering that the Yangs’ position was the majority opinion at that time, no matter how much Deng Xiaoping’s successors might want us to believe otherwise.

It’s also worth heading over to Philip Cunningham’s account of dinner, drinks and political discussion with the Yangs during the student movement in May 1989. There’s a rather nice picture there of Gladys and Xianyi playfully insulting each other as they sat on the two burgundy armchairs that were once part of a set with my old sofa.

I’ve scanned the Beijing Evening News obituary of Gladys, written by Ji Hong, and posted it on Page Two if you want to read the original text in Chinese. If you do, you’ll notice on the right there is a poem written by Shao Yanxiang for Gladys and Xianyi’s golden wedding anniversary. As I’ve said before, translating poetry is way beyond my limited ability, so I’m not even going to try. Perhaps someone else, with more talent than me, would like to do it.

A golden heart can never change
Ji Hong
In memory of the translator Madame Gladys Yang

Midnight on November 17 was truly a moment when an old day gave way to the new. The renowned translator Madame Gladys Yang departed the world that she loved; and departed the countless readers who loved her. Within a few short hours this sad news spread rapidly around the world and, one after another, people phoned her husband Yang Xianyi to express their deep grief.

gladys-yang.jpgTwelve days earlier, on November 5, Huang Miaozi and his wife Yu Feng, Shao Yanxiang and his wife Xie Wenxiu, Li Huixiong and I arranged to go to the Friendship Hotel to visit Mr. Yang Xianyi. Gladys Yang’s illness had worsened that day and her fever had reached 39C. Mr. Yang, calm and considerate as ever, had prepared good wine and food, but we knew how troubled and heavy his heart must be. Usually, Gladys Yang would sit on one side and listen with a smile to friends chatting about anything and everything. Sometimes the atmosphere of the conversation would become especially dynamic because of her humorous interjections. Maybe it was because she was a translator that she could always choose the most appropriate and lively words to express her opinion. Once, when everyone was discussing the Great Leap Forward, Gladys Yang said, “the leaders at that time wanted me to double my production too.” [a pun: 翻一翻, do some translation; and 翻一番, increase twofold.] This clever wordplay caused a wave of laughter. But now Gladys was lying in hospital! Mr. Yang dug out a portrait of Gladys that Yu Feng had painted ten years earlier and placed it by the chair. His inability to express in words what he felt about Gladys infected everyone there. To lighten the atmosphere a little, Yu Feng said she couldn’t believe she had once painted such a vivid and lifelike image of Gladys. She said, and not without a little pride, “Look. Look at that hair. Hmm, it’s painted well! It’s painted well!” At the top of the painting, Yu Feng had written the title: “Golden hair has turned to white, but a golden heart can never change.” Everyone said these words were truly apt.

Together, Gladys Yang and Yang Xianyi translated A Dream of Red Mansions, The Scholars, Selected Works of Lu Xun and other famous works of Chinese literature which have become established translation classics, attracting global acclaim for China’s translation work. Gladys Yang also translated many works by modern writers into English. With her great sense of responsibility and outstanding linguistic ability, she expanded the influence of Chinese literature in the world. On this point alone one can say without any exaggeration that she played an irreplaceable role. Like Mr. Yang Xianyi, she selflessly and untiringly labored to be a good intellectual performing her rightful duty for the people and the country. For her, when it came to work, there was never any question of bargaining over money — she devoted her whole life to China; what price could one put on that? But she herself was certainly priceless.

During the Cultural Revolution, Gladys Yang was labeled a “British spy” and imprisoned for four long years. Her beloved son was driven mad and later sadly died an unnatural death. These disasters inflicted heavy wounds on her heart. However, when someone had affront to ask her, “If you really love China, why haven’t you renounced your British citizenship?” Gladys Yang replied angrily, “The fact that I love China does not mean I don’t love Britain. What kind of party member are you? You’ve no internationalism whatsoever!”

This word “internationalism” occupied an extremely important place in her mind, and others might find it hard to understand. At the beginning of October this year I saw Bai Xia (Pat) at Cambridge University’s Faculty of Oriental Studies. This Scottish lady was once an expert at the China Literature Press at the Waiwenju. In 1974, Bai Xia was a young girl of around 20. She was fretting over what she would end up doing for a job when she had the good fortune to meet Gladys Yang who had returned to Britain to visit her family. Gladys Yang had not long been released from prison and the Cultural Revolution was still not over. Surprisingly, however, Gladys Yang advised Bai Xia to come and work in China. She said China was still very poor but there was hope and the Cultural Revolution could not be sustained for long. She did not say a word about the persecution she had personally suffered from the Cultural Revolution “She did not utter a word of complaint,” maintaining full confidence in China’s prospects. She had foresight and the only way I can understand what the word “patriotism” (loving the country) means for her is that “country” can mean both China and Britain; it is synonymous with “the people” and synonymous with “internationalism.” Bai Xia said she was inspired by Gladys Yang’s moral strength and spirit of internationalism.

On January 19 this year, on Gladys Yang’s 80th birthday, all her colleagues at China Literature Press signed a letter to her written with deep affection: “Dear and respected Madame Gladys Yang, China is your second homeland. You have spent three quarters of your life in this ancient land, from a beautiful young girl of 20 to an elderly white-haired lady of 80. Many long years have been poured into the great number of works you have translated and your illustrious fame will remain stored in the memory of the Chinese people.” “You are a living, female Norman Bethune, working at the front line of culture.” Those who attended the birthday celebration still remember clearly Gladys Yang’s response. With a faint voice she simply said, “How can I be that good?” Everyone replied with enthusiastic applause.

During the Cultural Revolution Yu Feng was also put in prison. One day she discovered that Gladys Yang was locked up in the same place. No one told Yu Feng she was so close, nor did she see her with her own eyes. Sitting in front of the painting of Gladys Yang, Yu Feng recalled, “At that time, and in that particular environment, only Gladys Yang still insisted on saying ‘thank you.’ When I heard these two words, I knew: that’s definitely Gladys. And it was.”

Gladys Yang has peacefully departed. Now it is our turn to say our final words to this internationalist warrior: “Thank you!”

May she rest in peace.

November 18, 1999

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A room with a view

As far as I know, no one is planning to build an office block two feet away from the windows of my new flat.

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In my last brief blog note I mentioned that I was moving. What I didn’t say was that I was moving 5,000 miles away to the east coast of England. After 11 years in China, I am now back for the forseeable future. This means that my About page is now not only highly uninformative, it is also untrue. One day I’ll get around to changing it. And one day my gravestone will be carved with the words: “He didn’t.”

A proper explanation for this rather big change may or may not be forthcoming. What effect will it have on Black and White Cat? Will it stop being about China and become an England blog. I hope not, but to be honest, I have no idea.

One thing I really must do now is apologize (at some point I will probably revert to British spelling, but not yet) to those who keep coming back to see if I’ve written anything new, only to find the same damned picture of a window. Sorry. Something will be coming soon. Well, soon-ish. Some time before Christmas.

They built something outside my flat

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Half of it seems to have ended up on my window. How close is that building that wasn’t there a few months ago? This close:

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There isn’t much light in my living room anymore. Good job I’m moving, really.

Sorry, your ethnic group can’t use the internet

Translated from a blog post by 27-year-old Uighur photographer Kuerbanjiang Saimaiti during the National Day holiday:

The people of Xinjiang are “welcome” throughout the country
Saturday, October 3, 2009

Yesterday I arrived here in Shenyang for the first time, and for the first time experienced the “warm” hospitality of the people of Shenyang. Because of this “warmth” I nearly had to sleep by the side of the road last night.

I was exhausted after a day of hard work and started to look for a hotel. The result was more than three hours of unnecessary hassle with no hotel allowing me to stay. When I phoned to book a room, they all said they had vacancies, but when I got to the hotel service desk the clerks would tell me boldly, as if it was perfectly right to do so, “We don’t accept Uighurs here”! Even after I’d produced all my documents, they still refused. I asked them who had ordered this. They said the Public Security Bureau. That really is going too far! I went to many hotels and everyone’s attitude was just as firm, looking at me as if I was a criminal! There was absolutely no goodwill in their eyes. Originally, I thought this was a pretty good city but now I was really disappointed with it!!! In the end, I made them get someone from the local Public Security Bureau and they made multiple photocopies of all my documents. They seemed to suspect my papers were forged…. I tried everything I could to persuade them and finally managed to get them to let me stay. I used my mobile phone to record their conversation with the person from the PSB and originally planned to put the recording here for everyone to hear. But then I thought that really isn’t necessary. Maybe trying to understand their point of view was the only way I could console myself at the time. I can be understanding about this incident, but if other people were in my place would they? What on Earth kind of good can this kind of behavior do? How long will this kind of situation go on? At least I understand Han Chinese and I could communicate with them. If this happened to people who had just come out of Xinjiang on business, or to tourists, would they really have had to just sleep by the side of the road? Could the national government really make regulations like this? I think it’s just that the local government’s way of doing things and thinking is excessively shallow.

I lay on the bed for a while to calm down and calmly and carefully thought about it. Actually, the attitude of these staff during this period is understandable. But isn’t the Shenyang government’s extreme targeting like this worth reflecting on? Another funny thing happened to me this morning. I had to send an email back for work so I found an internet cafe near the hotel and went up to the service counter.

“I need to use the internet. How much is the deposit, please?”
“Ten yuan,” the clerk said straight away without looking up. “I need to see your ID card.”
I got out my ID and said, “Here you are.”
“Sorry, your ethnic group can’t use the internet.”
“Why not?”
“State regulations.”

There was nothing I could do but laugh about it and leave. I went to another internet cafe and the reply was the same….

The blogger soon deleted that post (for now, at least there’s a copy here) and wrote this follow up:

We will always be one family!
Monday, October 5, 2009

Several days ago, something funny happened to me when I went to Shenyang and I simply wrote down what I felt about it at the time. I never thought that in just one day the hit rate would soar to more than 2,000. I’m really grateful to all the friendly people who showed concern for me. You made me feel the warmth of our big family! What I really had never expected was that all those bored people overseas who earn fifty cents for a post would repost what I’d written over and over again on foreign websites stirring up a whole lot of unnecessary comments. I really am furious about this. At the time, I used gentle words to describe my feelings and I pointed out that after the incident I could completely understand the attitude of the clerks. This was just a fault in the work of the local government and it doesn’t represent the views of our whole country! We can’t narrow-mindedly look at one part and allow it to pollute the whole environment. My original intention was to stress that Uighurs are one of the 56 ethnic groups in our great Chinese nation. We will never split away! We can never be parted! At the end of the year, I’m going to put on a big photographic exhibition which will display Uighurs’ cultural history and beautiful scenery! What I want to express is that Xinjiang has been a part of China since ancient times! The reason I’ve put so much effort into this is because I want, through my own meager efforts, to reduce misunderstandings a little bit, and create a little understanding, using pictures and words to draw us closer together! Once again, I want to stress that we should fully oppose the actions of those bored people overseas and I hope you will not use an individual like me to stir up trouble. I am an individual who deeply loves his country, his ethnic group and his homeland. Whatever your political aims or political organization, you should have a good think about your actions. Finally, I want to say, as a Chinese person, we should be proud of how glorious our country is now!!! Whatever ethnic group in China you are from, we will always be one family! Whatever corner of the Earth you are in, please don’t forget that our mother is China!!!

It’s hard to tell how widespread Kuerbanjiang’s experience in Shenyang was during the National Day holidays. There were scattered allegations on the internet of hotels refusing Uighurs in other parts of China, one of them in Anhui, but they were quickly deleted.

A similar situation existed in Beijing last year in the run-up to the Olympics.

On May 9, 2008, several Han and Uighurs went to five hotels near Beijing West Station and the Minzu University of China (previously known in English as the Central University of Nationalities). In each of the hotels, Han were offered a choice of rooms. Uighurs were refused in all of them. Mostly, the excuse given was that there were no vacancies. In one case the Uighur was told he couldn’t stay in the hotel because the computer scanner was broken so they couldn’t process his ID card. This problem mysteriously resolved itself for the Han guest whose card was swiped immediately. When the Han customer asked the hotel staff how the machine had managed to fix itself, the reply was that it only applied to “that person” (the Uighur), “not to us” (Han).

The next day, the group went to 20 hotels and guest houses in Beijing’s Haidian, Shijingshan, Fengshan and Xuanwu districts to ask if they would accept Uighur guests. Only eight of the 20 said yes. Of those eight, only the Shangrila said yes without any hesitation. The other seven said yes only after careful consideration, and many of them also said that the Uighur guests would have to be prepared to be investigated.

The cause of this reticence was discovered after the Olympics. Police had told all hotels that any Uighur or Tibetan guests must immediately be reported. The New Dominion translated one such notice issued by the Public Security Bureau:

To all inns and bathhouses of the administrative district:

In compliance with a request from the local PSB substation, starting today, investigations will be carried out on the lodging circumstances of all individuals of “Tibetan” and “Uyghur” ethnicity residing at inns and bathhouses of the Haidian District. Reinforce inspection and verification of any lodger matching the description above and report all cases to the local dispatch station.

Furthermore: every inn and bathhouse, when registering travelers, must double-check and accurately fill out the registration form.

All who receive Tibetan or Uyghur individuals for lodging must immediately report to the local dispatch station.

Officer to Contact: Wu Hu Cell Phone: 13801093916

Huayuan Dispatch Station On-Call Phone Numbers: 62014692 62032656

So, it appeared that there was no ban on Uighurs or Tibetans staying in any of the hotels in Beijing, but accepting them as guests would result in a whole lot of hassle. It was much easier to just lie and say they were fully booked. This may have been what happened in Shenyang at the beginning of this month. However, in his original blog post Kuerbanjiang said he was told immediately and explicitly that they did not accept Uighurs, suggesting that the police really may have ordered a ban.

Security is one thing. But if you want to encourage resentment, give ammunition to your enemies and encourage separatism, this is a pretty good way to go about it. Not everyone is as understanding as Kuerbanjiang Saimaiti.

(See also, from The New Dominion: The Uyghur Civil Rights Movement: No Uyghurs in our Hotel and Uyghurs Speak Out on Hotel Restrictions. And also: A Day of Pain, describing a Tibetan’s experience in Beijing in April last year. This is the sort of thing that tips some people over the edge.)

UPDATE: I’ve just discovered that China Digital Times has also translated the first of Kuerbanjiang’s posts, so you can compare our translations if you want. There are differences, but it’s funny to see how much is the same.

Coup surrealism: embassy turns into boat, threatens US warship

As the crow flies, Tegucigalpa is just over 50 miles from the sea. So Brazil’s ambassador may have wondered why Honduran troops had pointed sonic weapons at his building and (very loudly) informed him in English that he was approaching a US warship in international waters:

This is a test of the Long Range Acoustic Device, LRAD, from American Technology Corporation. The LRAD can be used to hail and… This is a test of… Unidentified small boat. You are approaching a United States warship operating in international waters. Request you establish communications, identify yourself and state your intentions.

Perhaps the coup regime thought the ambassador was a Somali pirate who had got lost. In addition to repelling pirates and harassing embassies, the LRAD has previously been used by the US military in Iraq and, more recently, by the Pittsburgh police.

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POSTSCRIPT: The video above comes from two videos uploaded to Youtube (Video 1, Video 2). It was presumably filmed on, or shortly after, September 22. I shortened them slightly and uploaded them to Youku, since Youtube is still blocked in China. It didn’t work. Readers may remember that I originally believed that Youku would not approve my compilation The Umbrella Men of Tiananmen. I was wrong. While Chinese liberals thought it was tragically funny but deeply embarrassing, nationalists thought it was a splendid display of patriotism and ingenuity on the part of the Armed Police. Youku immediately approved it. This video about Honduras, however, was almost immediately rejected. The reason given was the distinctly uninformative “because of the relevant regulations.” So now it’s on Yahoo instead.

Ai Weiwei’s surgery in Munich

Ai Weiwei’s surgery in Munich apparently went smoothly - two holes drilled in his head on Tuesday (or Monday evening?) to remove 30 ml of fluid from his skull. He says the pressure in his head has gone and so has the pain.

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He’d been suffering from headaches since police burst into his hotel room in Chengdu at 3 a.m. on August 12 and punched him. They also kept him confined to the hotel that day to prevent him from going to the trial of Tan Zuoren.

See Danwei for more info.

Before Urumqi: the 2002 needle attacks in Tianjin and Beijing

There’s nothing new about the use of hypodermic needles to threaten and rob people. It happens all over the world. What is unusual is for an entire city like Urumqi to be gripped by fear, with hundreds of people claiming to have been stabbed, and rumors swirling about separatists deliberately spreading AIDS.

But this is not the first time panic over needle attacks has filled a city in China. In January 2002, shopping areas in Tianjin were deserted and people on the streets were in a state of constant vigilance. Everyone knew some version, or versions, of the rumor: that people with AIDS from Henan were taking revenge, either for being infected or for being abandoned by society. Then the rumors spread to Beijing. None of them were true.

Four people were arrested and convicted in Tianjin; three in Beijing. In Tianjin, two of the attackers had used syringes during a robbery. The others were completely unconnected and none of them had AIDS. In one of the Beijing cases, the man didn’t even use a syringe - he was just pricking people with an awl. It was never clear how this really started. All of the people convicted had heard the rumors and copied them.

The panic in Tianjin and Beijing in 2002 was remarkably similar to the situation now in Urumqi. While some people really had been threatened or pricked by needles, it seemed that many of those who flocked to the hospitals had not pricked by anyone. Their “attacks” were just a product of mass hysteria.

The difference between these cities is that Tianjin and Beijing were not already on a knife edge when the rumors began. Unlike Urumqi, no one was beaten to death and there were no protests demanding the resignation of city leaders.

Below, I’ve translated a Southern Weekly report from late January, 2002. It’s worth reading now because we are unlikely to see open reporting like this in Urumqi and because it highlights just how unreliable such rumors are. In one of the claims the paper investigated, people were able to give detailed descriptions about the pursuit and capture of a non-existent attacker. The “victim” did exist, but she had simply misinterpreted a previously unnoticed scratch on her hand.

The original Chinese, via Sina.com, is here. (See also: Snopes on various versions of this rumor around the world.)

Investigation into the “Tianjin AIDS needle-stabbing” incidents
Southern Weekly, January 24, 2002

Rumors that people are using AIDS-carrying syringes to prick city residents have created anxiety throughout Tianjin. Police in Tianjin have caught four suspects. Tianjin TV broadcast an expert’s explanation: the HIV virus dies a minute and a half after leaving the human body due to congealing of the blood and unless the HIV carrier draws the blood at the scene and immediately injects a large quantity into another person, it is extremely difficult to transmit the HIV virus with a needle.

Why were the rumors so ubiquitous? Because there was no authoritative mainstream voice. It is worth considering how to make use of emergency mechanisms when public security crises occur.

Tianjin’s “anxiety”

For the last two to three weeks, the streets of Tianjin have been unusually deserted and residents’ eyes are on the alert as they have never been before.

The pedestrian shopping streets of Binjiang Road and Heping Road have given the city’s busiest commercial district the name “Tianjin’s Wangfujing.” But the sprinkling of pedestrians make it seem that the name does not match reality. One person from Shandong who came to Tianjin on a business trip says, “If you just looked at the people walking in the streets, you wouldn’t believe this was a big city. It’s pretty much like the small county town back at home.”

The source of the widespread malaise in this huge city of nine million people is a rumor: that a group of people with AIDS from Henan have come to Tianjian and are taking revenge on society by randomly stabbing people with syringes loaded with HIV-infected blood in public places like shopping centers, supermarkets and on the street.

According to a local reporter, people say the rumor began on Christmas Eve when it’s said that a man was pricked in Binjiang Shopping Center. After New Year’s Day [Jan. 1], stories about needle-pricking spread further and further and the number of people pricked became greater and greater until the whole city was filled with anxiety.

Faced with the difficulty in judging whether the rumor was true or false, people chose to take an attitude of “better safe than sorry” and did their best to keep outside activities to a minimum. (Continued)

US invited Honduran coup regime to military drills

The United States has supposedly ended military cooperation with Honduras because of the June 28 coup. So why has it invited the coup regime to take part in military exercises that start today?

The US Southern Command invited the Armed Forces of the de facto government of Honduras to take part in the PANAMAX 2009 maneuvers, despite the fact that Washington had announced a month ago its intention to suspend all military cooperation with the Central American country.

The participation of Honduras, together with 21 other countries*, was recorded in a list distributed hours ago in the Panamanian capital by the US Department of Defense which will coordinate the military exercises between September 11 and 12.

The invitation to the de facto regime appears to contradict the official position of the White House which proclaims that it rejects the coup that deposed Manuel Zelaya and advocates the isolation of the coup regime.

The coup regime in Honduras says it will not accept the invitation.

According to the Mexican news agency Notimex, the exercises will take place in waters off Panama and the coast of Honduras.

So, which is it? Is the US cutting off military ties with Honduras or not? For the last ten weeks, the US response to the military removal of Zelaya has been contradictory, repeatedly referring to it a coup, but refusing to officially classify it as one. It has cut off some of its aid to Honduras, but always stopped short of doing anything that would convince the regime that it must reinstate the constitutional president. Instead, Micheletti and his allies have been allowed to believe they can simply wait it out.

This ambivalence existed even before the coup took place. The US embassy in Honduras knew about the plan to overthrow Zelaya and says it advised against it. But if it had been serious in its opposition it should have been able to prevent the coup by threatening decisive action. It clearly didn’t do that.

Then there was the strange landing at the joint US-Honduran air base, Palmerola, of the plane carrying Zelaya out of the country, supposedly for refueling. The US admits that this took place, but denies having had any involvement or having known that Zelaya was on board. There is no proof that Americans were involved or that they did know. But there is still the question of why a plane would have to stop for refueling during a 40-minute flight. (Incidentally, back in July, Nikolas Kosloff pointed out that the Palmerola air base may itself have been one of the reasons for the coup.)

*This should be 20, not 21. The countries on the list are Argentina, Belize, Brazil, Canada, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Ecuador, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, the Netherlands, Nicaragua, Panama, Peru, the Dominican Republic, Uruguay, Paraguay and the United States, with Mexico and France observing.

UPDATE: According to Bloggings by Boz:

Honduras was among the countries invited “about a year ago” to participate in these exercises, which are planned well in advance. The plan for this year’s exercises also originally involved the use of Honduras’ Soto Cano air force base, where the US maintains a military presence. Following the coup, “about a month ago,” the US canceled the involvement of Soto Cano from the exercises. At that point, the Honduran military withdrew from the exercises due to the ongoing political differences between the de facto government and the other governments involved.

When weird tank-things drove down Chang’an Avenue

I originally planned to post this months ago, but other things got in the way and I forgot all about it.

It was just after 11 o’clock one night in April and there was nothing happening at work so I popped out to the shop. I was just starting to cross the road near the Millennium Monument when a policeman leaned out of his car and waved me back. For a moment I assumed this was because the traffic light was red, but then I looked behind him at the source of a deep, heavy roaring sound. Four huge things that appeared to be tanks were rumbling down Fuxing Road heading east towards Tiananmen Square!

Each of them was almost completely covered with a big blue wooden box carrying the name 河北重汽集团 (something like Hebei Heavy Vehicle Group), and at the bottom of each box was a fringe of gold tassles. But the tank treads were still clearly visible behind this disguise.

Much more interesting than my planned trip to the shop, so I jumped into a taxi to follow them.

“Where to?”
“Tiananmen Square.” It seemed like a better thing to say than “follow those tanks!”
“What do you want to see in Tiananmen Square at this time of night?”
“I haven’t got the slightest idea, to be honest, and I’m probably not even going there.” And then I told him what I’d just seen. He laughed.

“They’re not tanks. It’s something to do with fixing the road.”

This didn’t seem like a very likely story to me, but I couldn’t think of any better explanation. As we chatted about the big weird things ahead of us, it became clear that he was just as fascinated and bemused as I was. The tank-things had now disappeared from view because we’d got caught by traffic lights and I decided it was time to go back to work.

He dropped me off at Xidan, but almost immediately I heard that big rumbling sound again. Somehow we’d managed to get in front of them without overtaking. At the head of the convoy was the police car, then the “things,” followed by a truck painted with military camouflage, various emergency vehicles and more police cars.

When I got home, I checked the internet and discovered that other people were also wondering what the hell these tanks in boxes were for. Apparently they were making the same journey at the same time every night.

I went out again on the following night, with a camera this time and just as I stepped outside I heard the noise. Damn, I’d missed them. So, taxi time again. We were luckier with the traffic than the night before and I saw them turn south onto the 2nd Ring Road. Once again I got off at Xidan and, as I’d now guessed, the mysterious tank-things doubled back and rejoined Chang’an Avenue behind me. The result of this night’s outing was the abysmal video above. Apologies for the crappy picture - my camera simply can’t handle this sort of thing at night, but that’s no excuse for my failure to use it properly.

So, what were they and what were they doing? It turned out they were testing the strength of the roads and the subways below. Each night all the underpasses were closed off and fitted with seismic equipment to measure the vibrations. And all of this was in preparation for reinforcement work so that when the real tanks eventually roll down this route for the 60th anniversary parade on October 1, they don’t all fall down a great big hole.

Here are couple of pictures a reporter took of the mock tanks when they stopped over a subway. The report was quickly deleted, but there are plenty of copies around (eg. this one).

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Now, of course the real things are out on the roads of Beijing. I passed a huge convoy of tanks, trucks loaded with missiles and other trucks carrying barrels (what would they be for?) at about three o’clock this morning as I was bringing one my cats back home from the vet.

When I grow up I want to be a corrupt official

On the first day of term, Southern Metropolis Daily asked primary school children in Guangzhou what they want to be when they grow up. Here are some of the answers:

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(After much head scratching) “I don’t know”

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“A photographer”

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“A painter”

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“A pilot”

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“A fireman, because firemen can help people put out fires”

And then there was this girl:

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“I want to be an official”
“What kind of official?”
“A corrupt official, because corrupt officials have a lot of things.”

Postscript:
Since Southern Metropolis Daily posted the video, it’s generated a huge amount of interest and comment on the Chinese internet and, to a lesser extent, in English as well. For some strange reason, the paper decided to delete that page, but the video is available on Youtube.

So, what does it mean? Nothing really. It’s funny and that’s it.

None of us have any idea what this particular six-year-old thinks “a corrupt official” is. Her mother reportedly explained it to her, but we don’t know what that explanation was or how much of it she understood. Neither do we know what the girl was thinking when she gave her answer. Without knowing these things, we are simply transferring our own adult views onto a child.

I prefer to think that she was joking and was quite pleased with herself for saying something so unexpected. But this is just another opinion, like everyone else’s, with no evidence whatsoever to back it up.